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Morocco is the perfect starting point for any visitor to
Africa . The open air markets, piled high with rugs and local crafts,
are world renowned. The whole country exudes a romantic air, Casablanca
, Marrakesh and Tangier, names that invoke cosmopolitan thoughts
and stir exotic notions in everybody. The reality doesn't quite
match the image although it has to be said that Morocco is one of
the most beautiful and vibrant countries in the world.
The vast array
of geological and social sights to be found in Morocco means
that we will spend plenty of time here. There are many opportunities
to trek, raft and at certain times of the year, to ski in the High
Atlas Mountains. This combination of adventure along with the chance
to experience ancient and modern cultures, makes Morocco a fantastic
introduction to Africa.
Almost in direct contrast to the sleepy Hollywood
image of Bogarts colonial outpost, Casablanca is Morocco 's centre
of industry. The wide boulevards and parklands surround some
of the worlds largest and most elaborate mosques.
Rabat is a wonderful mix of old and
new, a largely modern city containing many examples of its glory
days of the 12 th century, the Kasbah then was used as a base
for campaigns against the Spanish, during these times, most of
the architecture seen today was built. Rabat is an unusual Moroccan
city, very few of the locals are into the tourism scams seen
elsewhere and so it is a wonderful place to experience the mix
of Islamic and European culture.
Famed
for its markets and festivals, Marrakesh is an important cultural
centre. The Souqs are amongst the best you will find anywhere and
amongst the stalls and vendors, the snake charmers, story tellers,
jugglers and magicians add a mystical air.
Fes el-Bali or Old Fes is one of the largest living medieval cities
in the world. There are over 9,400 streets and alleys containing
many markets including the Henna souq, a market specialising in
the dye used to colour hair and paint hands and feet. The overall
impression of Fes is one of self importance and grandeur, seen
in it's many labyrinthine streets. The most important part of exploring
Fes is to employ a guide, as the risk of becoming lost is overwhelming!
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Todra Gorge is a highlight of any visit to Morocco . Reaching
heights of 300m and at its narrowest point only 10m wide, this
natural phenomenon is a sight to behold. There is a crystal
clear stream running through the gorge and the opportunities
for climbing are numerous for the experienced. The nearby town
of Tinehir is worth a visit to experience the kasbahs and the
local people.
Home of the largest and best preserved Roman ruins
in Morocco , Volubis dates back to the 2 nd and 3 rd centuries
AD. An awesome sight.
The Western Sahara is a barren place, the vegetation of Morocco
quickly fades to sand and we will take several days to cross, stopping
at the impressive city of Dakhla.
Dakhla is an impressive sight, beautiful beaches and dramatic
cliffs provide a welcome stopover.
On
the surface, Mauritania has very little to offer, the country is
mainly barren, incredibly poor and has very little in the way of
sights. It is this desolation that is the main draw to the area.
Mauritania is dotted with prehistoric sights, nomadic tribesmen
and Saharan architecture. Mauritanian music is to be heard everywhere,
wailing voices accompanied by a "tidnit" a four stringed lute,
take some getting used to! Most social activities are accompanied
by traditional arab tea served in glasses with mint and the end
to a good day in Mauritania will involve sipping tea with nomads,
aware that the very remoteness of the place will mean that you
are in one of the least trodden places in the world.
The first town we hit in Mauritania is situated on
a peninsular very close to the Moroccan controlled Western Sahara
. Nouadhibou is a fishing town boasting huge stocks of fish.
There are many opportunities to swim, water ski and fish in this
beautiful area.
The capital, Nouakchott is a relatively new city, originally
built on a grassy area in 1960, the Sahara has moved in and now
the streets are lined with sand dunes. There are excellent beaches,
always busy with fishermen, offering welcome opportunities to
swim and watch the daily life going on around you. The people are
very friendly and always open to talking about their daily lives
and to showing local crafts.
The crossing of the Southern Sahara takes us
through oasis towns and meetings with nomads. We fully stock up
on food, water, diesel and eye drops for the journey across the
vast area that is the Sahara

Mali is a land of culture, awesome landscapes,
beautiful artwork, incredible mud built mosques and of course
Timbuktu!
The desert is rapidly eating away at Mali . As a result of the
terrible famines and diseases suffered by the Malians, they have
become an extraordinary peoples who's culture, religion and land
are very important to them.
Situated on the North bank of the Niger , Bamako is a
busy thriving city full of sights and sounds. The markets are
a maze of stalls selling everything from gold to monkey heads!
The Musee National is one of the most comprehensive museums in
West Africa, full of everything from tapestries to weapons, definitely
worth a visit.
Travelling on the Niger River is an entirely different
way of seeing Mali life. The Niger is the heart of Mali and the
busy ports up and down the river offer a different view. The
only downside of the journey being living conditions on the boat,
not the best!
As one of the largest cities on the Niger , Mopti has it's
problems. Visiting Mopti involves running the gauntlet of hard-sell
locals trying hard to offload their services as guides along
with all manner of goods. Great care is needed to avoid being
ripped off. That said, Mopti is a beautiful city with fantastic
sunsets over the Bani and Niger rivers.
Djenne is not on the normal travellers route through Mali
but it is a place not to be missed. Djenne is the oldest of one
of the most beautiful of the Saharan trading towns. The entire
place is built of mud and the Djenne Mosque is the largest mud
built building in the world, adding to the surreal landscape
of painted, thatched mud houses.
Regarded as the middle of nowhere, Timbuktu really is
in the middle of nowhere!! The journey to Timbuktu is not an
easy one and the remains of the once great trading town are unimpressive.
The town is surrounded by desert and you will have to step down
into most of the buildings as the sand builds up on the streets.
It may not seem worth visiting but the name still holds a mystery
and to say that you have been to Timbuktu is often reason enough
to go, the Timbuktu stamp in your passport helps!
Discovering the Dogon people and their villages is a highlight
to any visit to Mali . The Dogon have a vibrant and highly elaborate
culture that mirrors Africa 2000 years ago and there villages carved
into the pink sandstone cliffs are not to be missed. A large part
of the culture revolves around colourful market days and an abundance
of "millet beer"!
Burkina Faso is a fascinating country, one of the poorest
in West Africa , it has a reputation for having the ability to
see the good side of everything. The hospitality is second to none
and it is one of the most welcoming countries you can visit. There
are very few resources held by the people of Burkina Faso and
yet they have been able to create a cultural sophistication that
belies their poverty. The Fespaco Film Festival a cultural event
to rival Cannes!
Home to the Bobo people, Bobo-Dioulasso is an
amazing place. The laid back lifestyle, tree lined boulevards
and welcoming people add a friendly air to the colourful markets
and rewarding museums. Taking time out to sit in the leafy shade
of the Culturel Francais Henri Matisse is a must.
Capital of Burkina faso , Ouagadougou is a relatively
modern city. The opportunity to email, relax with friendly people,
drink coffee and visit the local nightclubs is a welcome one.
The lack of historical monuments is more than compensated for by
the leafy streets and relaxed atmosphere to be found here. Camels,
there are camels everywhere!
Niger is like nowhere else you will ever
see! The landscape is awesome, black volcanic mountains overlook
green oases, desert cities are in contrast to flowing waterfalls
and above it all is the desert. The people are desert nomads,
their aristocratic air is matched by their astonishing beauty.
Don't be fooled by the modern feel of Niamey , the real Africa
is not far below the surface. A good night in Niamey involves staring
at the stars, chatting with the locals after a good meal. This
is what being in the desert is all about!
Agadez has a lot of history, once a flourishing city,
Agadez is now a slow city full of Tuareg rebels and a fair amount
of history. Slave traders and gold have passed through the city
leaving an interesting place to visit. A lot has happened here.
Split into two parts, Zinder is a fascinating city. As the
second largest city in Niger , Zinder is a city of contrasts.
The North is commercial, mud buildings and industry are the key
points. The South is a picturesque maze of streets punctuated with
fine Hausa architecture.
Nigeria was set for big things in
the 70's but didn't quite make it. A lot of money was spent on
the countries infrastructure resulting in good roads, hospitals
and local amenities. Unfortunately the Nigeria of today has a
few problems but the confusion and mixture of over 250 peoples,
languages and cultures thrown together brings us a country like
no other. This is certainly the place to go to experience music
with a wide range of traditional African music, Afrobeat and Reggae.
Nigeria is not the most relaxing place to travel through but the
music alone is worth the effort.
Overpopulation, bureaucracy, corruption, poverty and crime,
mixed with a billion vehicles makes Lagos the type of place you
want to avoid! "The best thing about lagos is leaving" has a certain
truth to it!
As the oldest city in West Africa , Kano has almost 1000 years
of history within the cities mud walls. As the centre of the Hausa
trading empire it's markets are amongst the largest in Africa ,
the indigo dye pits have been in use for almost 1000 years and
smell like it!
One of West Africa 's best National parks,
it is well off the beaten track but worth the trip. Spotting
animals can be difficult but large herds of Elephant along with
many other types of wildlife live in the park and on a good day
there is lots to see. The other big draw to the park is the Wikki
Warm Springs, thermal springs bubbling into hot pools, very popular
and great for lazing away an afternoon.
Cameroon is a diverse country,
miles of black sand beaches give way to huge areas of tropical
rainforests. Travelling in Cameroon can be tough, poorly maintained
mud roads, pot holes and rain can make for slow going, the rewards
are huge, Cameroon 's rain forests are stunning and contain some
of Africa 's best game parks. Culturally, Cameroon also has a
lot to offer, with over 130 ethnic groups speaking dozens of languages,
all of this makes Cameroon the sort of place you want to stay
for as long as possible.
Nestled within Equatorial Africa's stunning rain forest,
Yaounde has some of the best back-drops of any capital city.
The cool climate and colonial architecture added to the lively
African markets, amazing arts and crafts and open air religious
ceremonies makes Yaounde a city with a lot to offer.
Douala is a lot different to Yaounde , it is hot and humid,
very busy and a little dull on the architectural front. The lively
cosmopolitan atmosphere will soon have you forgetting the negative
parts and sitting back with a coffee on one of the hotel terraces
overlooking the town is a great start to the day.
Buea is a sleepy town offering a beautiful cool climate
and the opportunity to head up the awesome 3000m Mount Cameroon
. The whole trip is about 27km and is not a difficult climb,
most people taking two days to complete it, camping overnight in
cabins. The climb is beautiful, taking you up through dense tropical
forests and sub-alpine meadows. The return to Buea is completed
with a beer at the Mountain Hotel and the opportunity to sit back
and take it all in.
Although there isn't a lot to do here, that is the whole
point of going. Beautiful white sand beaches and palm trees.
This is relaxation time, sit on the beach drinking palm wine, enjoy
fresh fish grilled to perfection and chat with the locals. Fantastic.
Probably Africa 's best national park, the terrain
is not spectacular as it is mainly flat scrub land but the shear
number of animals is overwhelming. At certain times of the year,
the main watering hole is crowded with hundreds of elephants
along with a large number of other animal and bird species.
Bad
Roads, poor water and health conditions, corruption all mean nothing
when you discover the magic that is Benin 's coast line. Stunning
stilted fishing villages, incredible food and the many artefacts
associated with the still practised voodooism and fetishism make
this the perfect country to explore and uncover some of the magic
below the surface. Benin was at one time the centre of the West
African slave trade and there are lots of museums showing the disturbing
history of the region.
The unofficial capital of Benin is a vibrant, lively place full
of upbeat bars, clubs and restaurants. There are opportunities
to experience superb African food, traditional crafts and buy great
souvenirs, these can range from drums to monkey testicles and voodoo
love fetishes! Fantastic!
Ouidah is the voodoo centre of Benin and as such can be
both informative and shocking. There are some great museums detailing
Benin 's voodoo history. Travel down the Route of the Slaves
past statues and small villages to stunning beaches, the main route
to the ships for slaves being sent overseas, a stark reminder
of the towns history as a major slave trading town.
The beaches here are better than perfect, there is nothing
more to say!
Togo is one of the most popular West African
countries for travellers and tourists. The capital and surrounding
beaches are the biggest draw, but venture off the beaten track
in this stick thin strip of country and you will discover magical
villages and vibrant markets.
In the past, Lome was known as the pearl of Africa , the
5 star hotels where packed with wealthy tourists enjoying fine
cuisine, unfortunately, political troubles in the 90's has all
but bought the flow of tourists to a standstill. The good thing
is that everything that was there before is still there now,
just with a semi-deserted feel to it. The beaches are amazing,
there are fascinating museums, western style shopping along with
reliable internet connections and of course the voodoo markets
seen all over the region.
Just outside Lome lies the old colonial capital of Togo .
Aneho looks a little worse for wear nowadays, but the whole place
takes on a very special air at night. The air is filled with
local music and food vendors fill the streets, sit back with a
beer and watch the world go by, superb!
Ghanaians are definitely amongst the
friendliest people you are ever likely to meet. The colonial
history litters the country with forts and castles contrasting
dramatically with the tradition and rich culture. The craftsmen
draw on their history to produce beautiful cloths and jewellery
found in colourful markets around the country.
As the capital of Ghana , Accra has a strange air of contradiction.
It is hectic, yet holds the traditional laid back African feel.
You will be amazed at how friendly people are, and the best thing
is that despite its popularity with tourists, the city is not
overrun with them. The city is famous throughout West Africa for
its nightlife, especially its dance clubs, definitely worth a night
out. The beaches around Accra are also excellent, travelling a
few kilometres will take you to paradise!
The Ghanaian coast is littered with
old slave-trading forts and fishing villages. Many of the forts
have been extensively restored and you can now sleep in a number
of them. The first major town on the coastal route is Cape Coast,
dominated by the landmark Cape Coast Castle, where you can visit
the dungeons and see first hand the horrific conditions the slaves
where kept in before being shipped out. The coast is a strange
mixture of beautiful sand beaches and huge forts, a place that
brings out mixed emotions in people.
The dense forests of the Kakum Nature Park
offer excellent opportunities to see a wide variety of monkeys
and birds, especially from the walkway suspended 40 meters above
the forest floor.
Senegal is in stark contrast to the
surrounding deserts in that it is a vibrant lush country, rich
in culture, music and the arts. Senegal brings in more tourists
than any other country in the region which means that many of
the costal areas are often busy but a walk through the streets
and plains opens you up to far more of the culture of Senegal.
World renowned for its football, Senegal has also produced internationally
known musicians in the shape of Youssou N'dour and Toure Kunda.
Although it is very expensive, Dakar is amongst the favourite
of all of West Africa 's big cities for travellers. It is relatively
small and so easy to get around with wide tree-lined streets and
a modern air. Night is transformed as many of the small café's
and bars spring into action. There are many internet café's
offering reliable connections and the markets are superb.
Senegal 's second largest city is not very big but is a great
place to relax and soak up Senegalese life. There is a world
famous tapestry factory where the tapestry's are all copies of
Senegalese artists and can cost thousands of dollars, a great place
to walk around to see how it's done.
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